INTRO
I originally created this mask painting demonstration for the October '95 Issue of Airbrush Action Magazine. While such demonstrations are ususally no more than a dozen or so steps, I provided about 50 slides and matching steps (yes, I have a tendency to go overboard). Printed as delivered, the article would have taken up half the magazine! So, the editors cut it by 50% while still allowing it to qualify as one of their longest how-to's ever, or so it seemed to me. Here, I present my own 4 page edit, starting with this page:
STEP 1
Before applying any paint, I spend some time researching possible paint schemes. Since this is a science fiction character, Commander Thorg, I turn to popular sci-fi magazines as inspiration. Not to imitate another paint scheme but to find coloration possibilities that might help project the character's personality. Once I decide on a paint scheme, I set up my work area with everything I need at hand. Latex mask painting requires a special mask paint medium. Unlike traditional acrylics, mask paint has a latex base that stretches with the mask instead of cracking. The basic five colors will allow you to mix a full range. For this mask I've also added a selection of Metallic Paints for special effect. Since mask paint tends to be thick, you'll need an external mix airbrush such as the Paasche H and a selection of small bristle brushes.
STEP 2
I recommend the use of a steady base on which to rest a mask while painting. I like to use a polyfoam full head armature for this purpose. Since I sculpted the original clay pattern for this mask on this armature, the mask sits on it perfectly...
STEP 3
Begin by placing the unpainted mask on your stand. I always use a swivel base underneath the stand so I can easily rotate the mask as I paint. Your feet will appreciate the value of this after several hours with the airbrush.
Using the primary mask paints, I begin mixing my first color for the base coat. I'm going for a sickly, yellow, jaundiced flesh color for this mask...
STEP 4
Once I've mixed my color, I transfer it to a spray jar. I always strain the paint before spraying. I mix up at least 3 ounces for the base coat. Mask paint tends to dry about 1/2 to 1 full shade darker than it appears in the jar, so I mix the color a little lighter to compensate. Mask paint is thick, so I'll need to set my airbrush tip to the widest opening. I begin spraying and move around the mask to apply the paint evenly. I don't want the paint to pool or run. As I continue to apply the base coat, I make sure to cover the mask completely. Becasuse this mask has many facted surfaces, I check every angle before switching to the next color. Sometimes I flex the mask to reach the difficult areas. This is one of the advantages of painting on rubber. After I've completed the base coat I clean the old color from the brush by spraying water through it.
STEP 5
A time-consuming but very worthwhile technique in mask painting is the rub-out technique. This is a process where pigmented rubber cement is applied over the base color, then removed only from the high surfaces of the mask. The darker contrasting paint that remains in the recessed areas creates a striking effect which emphasizes the detail. The more detail the mask has, the better the effect. In this photo, I'm making a reddish brown rub-out.
STEP 6
Using a spatula, I stir the mixture well. One can always thin down the cement using mineral spirits, if it seems too thick. Before applying the rub-out always test it on the back of the mask to make sure you like the color and that the contrast is not too strong. Apply the mixture with a sponge, dabbing and wiping as you go. Once you've applied the rub-out test patch, wait a few minutes for it to dry. Next, get your gloves on and wet a rag with mineral spirits. Lightly rub the surface of the mask with the rag using a circular motion. The mineral spirits will begin to wash away some of the rub-out color. Be sure not to rub too hard or the effect will be lost.
This rub-out looks good to me, so I decide to go with it...